The funeral of fashion designer Thierry Mugler, who died of natural causes on January 23, took place on Friday February 4, at 11 a.m., at the Protestant Chapel of the Oratory of the Louvre (75001).
The family wanted a private ceremony. His brother, his nephews and his companion Krzysztof Leon Dziemaskiewicz accompanied him to say a final farewell.
The designer who marked the 70s to 2000 with his extraordinary parades, died at the age of 73, at his home in the Paris suburbs.
Itinerary of a former dancer
The son of a doctor, Thierry Mugler was born in Strasbourg on December 21, 1948. He began dancing at the age of 9 and joined the ballet corps of the Opéra du Rhin at the age of 14, then took lessons at the School of Decorative Arts in the Alsatian capital to become an interior designer.
Very quickly, he created his own line with clothes bought at the Flea Market, while continuing to dance. At 20, he decided to go to Paris to find another corps de ballet. He does not leave alone since he brings his personal wardrobe with him, it will bring him a lot of success and will lead him to become a freelance stylist. He then worked in large houses in Paris, London and Milan or New York.
In the mid-1960s, he was in Paris, in St Germain-des-Prés, where he met his friends, the designers, Claude Montana and Gérard Silvi. From 1970, he sold his drawings and sketches at the Gudule boutique, rue de Buci (75006). In 1973, he presented his first collection, « Café de Paris », very different from those of other designers such as Sonia Rykiel, Dorothée Bis, Chantal Thomass, Jean-Claude de Castelbajac or Chloé by Karl Lagerfeld.
A different style, very structured
The fluid style is fashionable at this time unlike the ideas of Thierry Mugler who prefers structured models. The 50s style, black suit and sexy trench are part of his creations. Just like his friend Azzedine Alaïa who introduced him to haute couture, he uses fabrics in a crumpled, draped or pinned way Thanks to the help of Didier Grumbach, nephew of Pierre Mendès France and co-founder of the loan line -à-porter Yves St Laurent in 1966, he opened his first store Place des Victoires in Paris. Later, he designed the uniforms of Palace servers,
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Its best representative is David Bowie who wears his « mermaid outfit » in the clip « Boys keep swimming ». Joey Arias and Klaus Nomi also wear his outfits, this is what will make him « The » creator of the 80s with gigantic parades organized like in the cabaret. For the 10th anniversary of his house in 1984, he organized the parade « L’hiver des anges » at the Zénith. This success is linked to the acting lessons he took at Cours Florent; He settles all the details, from the sketch to the soundtrack, lights or photography under the baton of Helmut Newton and with the contribution of Jack Lang. The designer is revolutionizing men’s fashion thanks to the collared jacket he created and which the minister wears at the National Assembly. The models Edwige Belmore, Farida Khelfa, Pat Cleveland or Jerry Hall untie for him. Wishing to preserve his freedom, he refuses proposals such as the costumes for « Cotton Club » by Coppola, « Dangerous » by Mickael Jackson, Madonna or even Dior.
A new workshop near Les Halles
In the early 1990s, he opened a new 4,000 m² studio on rue aux Ours, near Les Halles. He ends up agreeing to direct George Michael’s music video, « Too funky » for the « Red hot+Dance » compilation, the proceeds of which go to AIDS research. Linda Evangelista, Tyra Banks, Nadja Auermann and Estelle Lefébure are in the cast. Unfortunately, the passage on TV purges the hot shots evoked by Mugler.
In 1992, he launched into Haute Couture and created, after 2 years of work, the « Angel » perfume with sweet fragrances of praline, caramel and patchouli, developed by Olivier Cresp and a star-shaped bottle, designed by Jean – Jacques Urcun. It becomes the best-selling perfume. In 1997, the Clarins group became the brand’s owner.
For the brand’s 20th anniversary, in 1994, Thierry Mugler organized a show at the Cirque d’Hiver. His new friend is involved in the creation of clothes, accessories and perfumes (Angel, A-Men, Alien, Womanity ..), in campaigns and promotional clips. Finally, he decided to no longer design his collections in 2002.
Return to his first passion: the circus
From now on, Thierry Mugler devotes himself to the show, first of all with the Cirque du Soleil for « Zumanity » for which he creates the costumes and the staging of a painting. In the 2010s, he was Beyoncé’s artistic advisor when he designed the outfits for her « I Am..World Tour ». He intervenes on the choreography, the staging, the lights and the sets. At the same time, he launched a make-up line.
It was also at this time that he declared having had plastic surgery, thus changing his physique from head to toe but also his first name, becoming Manfred Thierry Mugler. He returned to settle in Paris and refused exhibitions of his work, notably at the « Arts Décoratifs » in Paris and at the « Victoria & Albert museum » in London.
Between 84 and 89, he created the costumes for 2 ballet operas, from the musical Emilie Jolie and Shakespeare’s Macbeth to the French comedy. He dressed the singer Mylène Farmer and shot 4 short films in 90 with Juliette Binoche, Isabelle Huppert and Dauphine de Jerphanion, one of her favorite models.
In 2015, creation of Studio Mugler », directed by Christophe de Lataillade. The design team offers its know-how to architecture, furniture and objects, including a 3D concept car, an Algeco construction site container , transforming it into a space for exhibition, consultation and sale.
An exhibition at the MAD
Since September 30, 2021, an exhibition, « Couturissime » has been held at the Musée des Arts Décoratifs in Paris. For the first time, it evokes the career of the extraordinary couturier through his creations, whether in haute couture, fashion, perfume, photos or shows. It is his 50 years of experience in his universe that are highlighted. We discover the parades, the favorite models, his extravagant creations and images of his shows.
The exhibition, which ends on April 24, 2022, also shows the place of the couturier in France and internationally.
Death
Thierry Mugler passed away on January 23 at his home, of natural death. He was 73 years old. The funeral took place on Friday February 4, in private, at the Protestant temple of the Oratory of the Louvre, rue St Honoré (75001).
The designer’s companion, very moved, carried the coffin when entering and leaving the temple under the music of James Brown, « Get on up ». before leaving a last kiss.
Among the personalities present around the family and his companion Krzysztof Leon Dziemaskiewicz, were the former Minister of Culture, Jack Lang and his wife; designer Chantal Thomass and her husband; the actor François Vincentelli and his partner Alice Dufour; his muse, star singer of Berlin-created « the Wyld » musical show, Cindy Sander; the hairdresser Alexandre Zouari, the photographer Dominique Issermann.
A site of meditation has been opened by the family in order to be able to pay a last tribute to the couturier.
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